· Because of our clayey soil more often than not newly planted young trees have trouble to establish a strong root system.
· As an example Drake
Elms (Ulmus parvifolia 'Drake'), used as street trees in Cypress Isles,
often topple during strong rainstorms and generally are not doing well.
· Better suitable for our not well draining and often compacted clay
soil are the Live Oak
(Quercus virginiana), the Winged
Elm (Ulmus alata), the Laurel
Oak (Quercus hemisphaerica), the Red Maple (Acer rubrum) and the Allee Elm (Ulmus parvifolia 'Allee')
· It is advisable to plant smaller trees (trunk diameter 2"
or less measured 6" from the root ball) rather than larger trees. This
will result in a shorter time of establishment and a better chance of survival
and they are cheaper.
· In a well-drained soil a new tree should be planted with the root
ball level with the surrounding soil. However, in not well draining clay
soil and/or compacted soil the top quarter to third of the root ball should
be planted higher than the surrounding soil and irrigation managed accordingly.
Dig the planting hole deep enough to penetrate the clay layer and refill
with soil mixture such that one-third of the root ball is higher than the
surrounding soil. After planting, mound soil to create a gentle slope down
from the top of the root ball. The planting hole and resulting mound should
be at least five times wider than the root ball.
· Proper irrigation during establishment is of utmost importance.
It is even more important than fertilization. A small tree (diameter less
than 2") needs water every day for two months, than every other day
for 3 months and than once per week. Planting a larger tree requires watering
during periods twice as long. (another reason to plant small trees)
· Many healthy trees do not require staking after planting. However,
if anchor stakes are required 2-3 stakes should be used which are driven
at least 24" into the ground. Use wide rubber-like material as wrap
around the trunk above the base of the lower branch. Wraps and stakes should
be removed within a year after planting.
· Apply mulch 2 to 3 inches deep in a circle around the trunk. The
diameter of the circle should be 2 feet for each inch of trunk diameter.
So a 2" trunk requires a circle of mulch with a 4 feet diameter. Mulch
around the trunk will help establish the tree quickly without competition
of other plants, especially turf grass.
· Fertilization is desirable. Give new trees 4 to 6 weeks after planting
a small application of slow-release fertilizer (30-50% slow-release Nitrogen)
and than two to three times per year for the following 3 years or so. Two
of the annual applications are normally scheduled for March and September.
The third application can be made during the summer. These applications
should be applied to the surface of mulched and un-mulched areas extending
out from the tree's trunk to about 1 ½ to 2 times the canopy's diameter.
An example of the amount of fertilizer to be used in an annual application
is e.g. 0.24 lbs. (= 7.5 tablespoons) of 12-4-8 (N-P-K) fertilizer for a
canopy of 4 feet and an area of 1.5 x 4 = 6 feet diameter. Many fertilizers
are formulated for use on lawn grasses. Some of these, known as weed-and-feed
fertilizers, may contain a herbicide that can damage trees. It is best to
not use these close to young trees. Once trees are well established (3 to
5 years after transplanting) they will not need additional fertilizer if
they are growing in a landscape where turf and shrubs are fertilized.
This page was updated 8/23/2001